Brioni

Brioni achieved double-digit growth in 2024 against a Kering portfolio that contracted 12%. The Italian sartorial menswear house, founded in Rome in 1945 by Nazareno Fonticoli and Gaetano Savini and acquired by Kering in 2011, sits inside Kering’s “Other Houses” segment alongside Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, and the jewelry brands. New CEO Federico Arrigoni took the role in May 2025, while Norbert Stumpfl has led creative direction since October 2018.

Brioni’s category authority is sartorial menswear. The house staged the first menswear runway show in modern fashion history in 1952 and built its identity on Su Misura made-to-measure tailoring, ready-to-wear suits, and the polo-player logo registered in 1952 (over a decade before Polo Ralph Lauren adopted a variation). The brand operates a tailoring school in Penne, Abruzzo, and recently launched its first full womenswear collection alongside the established menswear core. Oscar Isaac became the house ambassador in 2024.

Brioni is a small but profitable component of Kering’s portfolio, with a footprint concentrated in luxury department store concessions and selective directly operated boutiques in major luxury cities. Distribution prioritizes ultra-prime real estate over volume mall placement. For mall operators, Brioni is a flagship-only counterparty operating in the same A-grade luxury wing as Kering’s larger houses, with leasing routed through Kering’s central commercial real estate organization rather than brand-level commercial teams.